GETTING A LESSON IN BISTRONOMY AT COMME ÇA
Chef David Myers and Executive Chef Brian Howard of Comme Ça have launched a primer in bistro dining with their introduction of a new seven-course Bistronomy Menu. The French feast began with a shared lesson in charcuterie – a selection of Chef Howard’s specialty of salted, smoked, and cured meats presented in the form of dried sausages, pates, terrines, and “pressed meats” served alongside pickles, crostini and condiments. We also shared a flavorful steak tartare cleverly presented in a jar and topped with confit egg yolk as well as one of the table’s overwhelming favorites, escargot in a bread “box.” The box-shaped brioche was unbelievably soft and had been smothered in a decadent herb butter of parsley gel, mustard, cilantro, garlic flower, and gong choy. It was by far my favorite nosh of the night. Accompanying our shared course was Comme Ça’s Thyme for Bourbon cocktail – which I am pleased to report was not strong but rather sweetly addicting.
The first course was Beef Stew Gelee, an instruction in an elevated and refined version of beef stew, with celery horseradish mousse, tiny radish, and shaved foie gras. The top layer was chilled stew of a gel-like texture with a pale green layer, which delivered a lovely bite I might add, hiding beneath. A+!
Next we were schooled in Venison Carpaccio with crispy sweetbreads, roasted turnip, quail egg, and pickled mushroom. A nice combination of flavors, the sweetbreads assisted in bringing out the venison’s flavor.
Our third course was a House Cured Bacon Wrapped Swordfish with panisse and truffle jus. The chickpea fritter was an unexpected and delicious surprise.
Now this is the portion of the class when things got a bit dicey. We had Offal Stew, which for many was an “awful” thought but truly an education in eating Anthony Bourdain-style, packed with tripe noodle, sweetbreads, bull fry, tongue, and roasted mirepoix, with foie gras added for a bit of sizzle.
The star pupil of the night was Comme Ça’s Lobster Thermidor, a sinfully creamy and decadent baked lobster with piquillo pepper and pommes puree. And on the sweet side, the bistro’s Tart au Citron, topped with a refreshing scoop of lemon verbena mint ice cream and served with a fluffy lavender marshmallow lemon curd, was grade A.
Comme Ça, The Cosmopolitan Las Vegas, www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com
Hours: Lunch noon to 5 p.m. (Fri-Sun), Dinner 5 to 11 p.m. (Mon-Sun).
This entry was posted on Wednesday, February 15th, 2012 at 8:27 pm
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